When we talk about how to create a mirror finish for your car’s paint, we’re talking about the things you can do to maximize gloss and clarity while creating that wet look that makes your car look like it just received a high-end custom paint job.
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Not only does clean, shiny paint make your car look great, but paint that is regularly maintained will last longer without suffering things like clearcoat failure, as well as it’s easier and faster to wash and dry your car in the future.
And of course, it’s a lot more rewarding to drive around a clean shiny car than a car with neglected, dull, faded, and oxidized paint. Maintaining your car’s appearance will also help to retain and even maximize resale or trade-in value.
Now, a mirror finish is also a glossy finish. So the question really is:
How do you create and maximize gloss?
For most of us, we’re working on factory paint, and for this reason we’re somewhat limited to normal things like washing, claying, machine polishing and ceramic coating when it comes to maximizing gloss.
For others, they’re working on aftermarket custom paint with enough clear coat to allow for sanding, which can increase gloss, depth and clarity to insane levels.
Whichever side you fall on, I’ll go over every aspect of how to get a “mirror finish” or “wet look” on a car, from the actual painting of the vehicle to the polishing and ceramic coating that you can do yourself after taking ownership.
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“Warm” vs. “Mirror” vs. “Wet” Gloss
Generally speaking, when people describe the look of their paint’s gloss, they’ll use terms such as these:
- Warm: Typically refers to paint with more “glow” then reflectivity
- Cold: Typically refers to highly reflective paint with little depth
- Sterile: Also refers to reflective paint with little depth
- Plasticky: Typically refers to paint with poor reflectivity
- “Wet Look” : Refers to paint with both high reflectivity and depth, creating the appearance of freshly applied paint — hence “wet”.
All of these factors are influenced by the type of protection product you choose for the paint, or what we call the “LSP” or Last Step Product.
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Because we’re all different, some people may be wanting to create a warm glow while others prefer to create the wet look. In order to achieve the specific look you want for the paint on your car, you’ll need to experiment with different products and pay attention to the final results after using any given product.
Maximizing DOI: The Secret to Mirror Finishes
While protection is very important in creating gloss, the sanding processes that happen at the factory or body shop before you get the car have even more impact.
That’s because when it comes to getting a “mirror” finish, there’s one quality that’s more important than all others: D.O.I. or “Distinction of Image”.
This means how clearly images are reflected in the paint and how distorted they appear due to defects.
A mirror, for example, has a D.O.I. of 100% — a perfect reflection.
Orange peel and other surface texture from painting clouds the reflection, reducing the D.O.I.
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So, the real key to maximizing the mirror shine is to remove that orange peel and texture by sanding once the car has left the paint booth. Sanding the paint flat and then buffing out the sanding marks is what truly creates the showcar mirror finish.
Sanding to maximize DOI is the norm for custom paintwork applied by a body shop or a high end vehicle coming from a luxury manufacturer’s factory. Thick layers of clear are applied so that when sanding is done, the clear coat isn’t removed during this aggressive process.
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For most of us however, we’re working on factory paint and factory paint is thin. Most new cars, trucks and SUVS have what’s called a basecoat/clearcoat paint system. It is the top layer, or the clearcoat layer of paint that we can work on. This topcoat of clear paint measures on average LESS than 2 mils thin.
To give you an idea as to how thin this is, the average Post-it Note or piece of printer paper is around 3 mils thin. The next time you have a Post-It Note, or a piece of printer paper, feel this paper between your thumb and index finger and then understand, the clearcoat layer of paint is THINNER than a Post-it Note.
Because the factory clearcoat is so thin, it’s not normally safe to do any sanding to factory paint to remove or reduce orange peel and/or surface texture.
The clearcoat layer of paint is thinner than a Post-It Note.
Mike Phillips
We can, however, do a lot of things that will increase the smoothness and/or flatness of the paint, and these are the things that increase gloss and create a mirror finish. This is what I’ll be covering in this “how-to” guide.
How to Get a Mirror Finish on Your Car at Home
Like I said in the previous section, sanding to remove orange peel is not an option on the thin factory clear coat most daily drivers have. So we’ll have to settle for the next best thing — paintwork correction via machine polishing.
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Here’s a step-by-step guide to properly machine polishing the paint to get a mirror finish:
Step 1: Wash the Car
Before you polish a car’s paint, it needs to be clean so that you’re not grinding contaminant particles into the paint and scratching the finish.
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Unfortunately, if not done correctly, washing a car can inflict swirls and scratches, especially if you’re using dirty towels or mitts.
If you would like to see tips and techniques for how to carefully wash a car to avoid accidentally putting swirls and scratches into the paint, check out our recent video and article on how to wash a black car.
Here’s the final results from a careful and thorough wash job – the first step in creating a mirror finish.
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Step 2: Stretch & Blow Out Cracks, Crevices, Emblems, Mirrors, Door Jambs, Etc.
After washing and drying your car, move it into your garage or shop. Open all the doors, the hood and the trunk lid and wipe down all the jambs. Professional Detailers call this stretching, because like you and I stretch-out after getting out of bed or before working out at the gym, when you open all the doors, hood, and trunk lid, it looks like the car is stretching out.
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Once the car is stretched out, you’ll want to blow out all the cracks and crevices with a blower. Blowing out any hidden water from tight and/or intricate areas avoids having rinse water drip down body panels while you’re detailing the car.
Step 3: Inspect Paint for Contamination & Defects
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Looking at this washed and dried C8 Corvette from about 10 feet away, (where I took this picture), the paint looks like it already has a mirror finish. But this is far from true. Let me zoom in a little and use overhead lights to reveal the true condition of the paint.
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Here’s the hood, now I’ll zoom in a little so you can see all the different types of paint defects that prevent creating a mirror finish.
In the below pictures, you’ll see water spots, sometimes called water marks, plus light swirls. Besides these paint defects, the paint has a hazy look to it when it should be clear with a dark, black reflection.
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In the next pictures, I’ve zoomed in even closer to really showcase the water spots. And keep in mind, these water spots are here AFTER washing and drying. This means these water spots were not surface contaminants — something that would wash off — but actually etchings that are IN the top surface of the clearcoat layer of paint.
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The only way to remove these types of water spots is via a machine polishing step.
Once we’ve visually inspected the paint, we need to tactically inspect the paint for embedded contamination. I do this using something called “The Baggie Test”.
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The Baggie Test will tell you if the paint on your car has some type of bonded contamination on the paint surface. And remember, we just washed this car, so any LOOSE dirt will have washed off. Anything left behind is BONDED onto the paint with a strong enough bond that it wouldn’t simply wash off.
- Wrap a plastic sandwich baggie around your hand. This thin film of plastic heightens your skin’s sensitivity and this makes it DRAMATICALLY easier to detect above surface bonded contaminants like overspray paint, tree sap mist, industrial fallout, and/or airborne pollution.
- LIGHTLY feel the paint surface, especially all the horizontal surfaces like the roof, hood, and trunk lid.
- If the surface is smooth, the paint is uncontaminated. If the surface is bumpy, it needs to be decontaminated with clay.
Step 4: Decontaminate Paint via Clay Bar
Decontaminating the paint with clay is crucial for producing a mirror finish. Let me explain.
Gloss and reflectivity comes from a smooth surface. The flat surface reflects light rays at a consistent angle, producing a distinct image.
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When there are contaminants bonded to the paint surface, this contamination creates SURFACE TEXTURE. That surface texture will scatter the light rays, disrupting the mirror reflection.
So, we need to remove that contamination in order to get a smooth and therefore reflective paint surface. Claying is the best way to achieve this.
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Claying paint is pretty simple:
- Start by forming a bar of detailing clay into a flat, patty, kind of like a pancake.
- Spray down an ample amount of a clay lube like our Prep Wash.
- Rub the clay in a back-and-forth motion. As you rub the clay over the paint you will feel the clay grab the paint.
- As you continue to rub the clay patty over this same area, as it removes the contamination, the clay patty will begin to glide over the paint surface effortlessly. This is a tactical sign that this section of paint is now clean and smooth, and you can move onto a new section of paint.
- After claying each section of paint, use a clean microfiber towel to gently remove any clay lube residue.
If you’ve never used detailing clay before, you can get a more in-depth guide in our article and video “What Are Clay Bars?”:
Step 5: Visually Inspect Paint Again
After claying, you’ll want to visually inspect the paint again using a quality, strong hand held light plus Overhead Lights to evaluate the current condition of the paint.
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After inspecting the paint if you discover swirls, scratches, water spots and/or oxidation, the next thing you want to do is called doing a Test Spot. A Test Spot is where you TEST the products, pads, tools, and your technique to one small area, usually on the hood or trunk lid, to dial-in a paint correction process that removes the defects you discovered when inspecting with bright light to your satisfaction.
Normally you do your first Test Spot using a polish with a foam polishing pad. If this produces the results you’re looking for in this one small section, you have proved your process and can have confidence that you can now repeat this process over the rest of the car and theoretically, – get the same results.
If the polish and pad in your first Test Spot didn’t remove the defects to your satisfaction, next you can try a more aggressive product, or a more aggressive pad or both.
The big picture idea is to test out the products, pads, and polishers you think will work and prove that the process will in fact remove the defects to your satisfaction. Once you dial in your process via testing, now you can tackle the entire car, usually starting out at the top of the car and working your way down and around.
For a video that shows how to clay, how-to use hand-held lights to inspect paint, and how to do a proper Test Spot, check out our recent video on how to polish black paint on cars:
Step 6: Paintwork Correction
Once you’ve dialed-in your process via testing, next you want to do the paint correction step via machine polishing. This is really important; make sure whatever brand of compound or polish you choose – uses great abrasive technology.
Some compounds and polishes will remove defects, but they will leave their own defect behind in the paint. This is called working backwards. You want to choose and use great abrasive technology as these types of products will remove defects while leaving pristine paint behind.
This is one of the reasons I like Dr. Beasley’s Nano Surface Primers, or NSPs as we call them. They’re basically Dr. Beasley’s versions of conventional compounds and polishes and they use microscopic abrasives that are UNIQUE to Dr. Beasley’s. The reason they’re called Primers is because they not only do the paint correction, but also prep the paint for the ceramic coating.
When doing the paint correction step, normally you start at the top and work your way down and around. If you’re new to machine polishing, check out our recent video and article on the Best Polishers for Beginners.
To remove the defects out of the paint on this C8 Corvette, through some testing, I found the water spots, oxidation and swirls could be removed by using NSP 95 with a Buff and Shine EdgeGuard foam polishing pad and the tool I’m using is the new 24 Volt Cordless CBEAST.
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Step 6: Prep Paint for Ceramic Coating
Once the paint correction step is over, the next thing you want to do is to prep the paint for the coating. With Dr. Beasley’s system, after polishing, you can go straight to installation of the ceramic coating.
This is one of the things I love the most about the NSPs. Because they are 100% inorganic, there’s no need to use a Panel Wipe after polishing and before installing the coating.
What I mean is, with conventional compounds and polishes, you’ll need to chemically strip the paint before installing a coating using a solvent commonly referred to as a Panel Wipe.
Conventional compounds and polishes use organic solvents, oils and fillers that will prevent a ceramic coating from making a proper bond. Thus there is the need for a Panel Wipe. With Dr. Beasley’s NSP Primers there’s no need to do this extra chemical stripping step.
First Step – Using Gloss Builder
Now a lot of ceramic coatings, including Dr. Beasley’s, will have a two-step process with the first step being to use a pre-coating prep product. For the Dr. Beasley’s coating I’m using, the prep product is called Paint Coating Builder. But I’m also going to be using a new Dr. Beasley’s product that’s a reformulated version called Gloss Builder.
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I’ve been playing around with this the past few months and it does really make a difference in terms of the kind of shine you get. This is a pre-release product, so it doesn’t have the final packaging and labeling.
How to Apply Gloss Builder
You apply Gloss Builder in the same way you would apply a ceramic coating using coating applicator pads. Another option is to mist some Gloss Builder onto a folded, clean, microfiber towel and then gently wipe each panel turning the towel to a fresh side often and switching out to fresh towels often to avoid any cross contamination.
Basically what Gloss Builder does is it enhances the gloss, clarity, and depth of the paint, BEFORE applying a ceramic coating and this 100% inorganic nanostructure primes the paint for maximum bonding of all ceramic coatings to the paint no matter the brand.
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- Mist a little Gloss Builder onto a clean, soft, folded microfiber towel, followed by misting a light spray onto a section of paint.
- Spread the product out over the surface and then flip to a fresh dry side to polish off any excess residues.
- Repeat steps 1 & 2 over the entire car and/or any surface that will get ceramic coated.
Step 7: Protect & Enhance Shine with Ceramic Coating
Now that you’ve perfected the gloss and clarity of the paint, the last step is to install the coating. For this I’m using Dr. Beasley’s Nano-Resin MX Ceramic Coating, which creates a super high gloss finish while creating that deep, wet shine everyone loves.
Of course, you can use any ceramic coating you’d like. Just be sure to use one that’s reviewed highly for its gloss enhancing properties.
The benefits to using a ceramic coating over traditional carnauba car waxes or synthetic paint sealants are ceramic coatings form a semi-permanent bond to the paint, thus they last much longer.
Because they last longer, this also means they protect longer. Besides the protection benefits, ceramic coatings create a glassy, wet look shine that makes your car look like it just received a custom paint job. Here are step-by-step instructions:
- Using the included pipette, apply a few drops of coating onto one side of the included microfiber coating applicator pad.
- Divide larger body panels into smaller sections. Then apply the coating to one section at a time.
- Apply the coating using a crosshatch pattern, moving the microfiber applicator in a back-and-forth motion followed by a side-to-side motion. This technique helps to ensure complete, uniform coverage.
- Immediately after applying the coating to a section of paint, wait for approximately 30 seconds to one minute. Using a clean, soft microfiber towel, level the coating followed by switching to a clean, fresh side of the towel and give this section of paint a final buff to reveal a crystal clear, mirror finish.
- Re-inspect and carefully look for any high spots. A high spot is simply a streak, patch or smear of ceramic coating that was not fully removed. A strong hand-held swirl finder light works great for locating and removing any high spots.
- Repeat steps 3-5 across all painted surfaces, re-applying drops to your applicator as needed between panels/areas.
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How to Maintain a Mirror Finish on Your Car
Once you’re done detailing our car, the question is,
How do I maintain this glossy, wet look mirror finish?
Great question! The answer is simple:
- Wash your car bi-monthly and carefully, using a pH balanced premium quality car wash soap
- Before washing your car, always pre-inspect anything that will touch the paint to make sure there are no sharp or poky contaminants that have attached themselves from past use. This includes inspecting your wash mitts, drying towels and microfiber wiping towels.
- Use a spray detailer to remove light dust, fingerprints, and smudges.
- Use a stain remover/spot cleaner to remove more stubborn messes like bird droppings or insect remains.
- Apply a ceramic maintenance spray every few months to restore shine and water beading effects.
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How to Apply a Ceramic Spray to Maintain a Mirror Finish
Once the car is clean and dust free from either washing or using a spray detailer, the best way, and the easiest way to maintain and even rejuvenate the gloss and shine is to use a spray-on ceramic coating like our Bead Hero.
The best way to use Bead Hero is via the 2-Towel Method.
- Apply Bead Hero to a clean microfiber towel and spread over a small area or panel.
- Use a second towel to remove excess and buff to a reflective mirror shine.
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How to Rejuvenate a Mirror Shine for a Car Show or Date Night
Sometimes after we perfect our vehicle’s appearance we don’t immediately show it off. Cars will go into storage until that special day or night approaches. Unfortunately, in that intervening time, gloss can dull slightly from the “mirror finish” or “wet look” you originally had after detailing.
There are a couple options for rejuvenating the appearance of a detailed car before a car show or date night.
- Detail Spray: For one, you can use a detail spray like The Final Finish to remove light dust, fingerprints, or smudges.
- Gloss Enhancing Spray: Another option that will really maximize gloss, clarity, and slickness, is to use the Gloss Builder spray I mentioned earlier in the article and apply using the 2-towel method.
Gloss Builder atomizes incredibly well to lay down a super fine mist of product. Spread this product around to a section of paint using one clean, folded microfiber towel and then give this section a final buff using a separate, clean dry microfiber towel.
Gloss Builder, as the name implies, will re-build gloss and clarity to give your car a true, mirror finish. Be sure to only use this product on cars that were already polished and ceramic coated.
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Marveling at the Final Results!
The average person would have thought this car already looked pretty good when it first arrived.
But a thorough and careful detailing process that includes washing, claying, machine polishing and installing a quality ceramic coating has restored and even exceeded the mirror finish from the factory.
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What About Custom Painting?
As I discussed at the beginning of this article, technically you could go a step further and get the car custom painted by a body shop before sanding and polishing the thick clear coat to total perfection.
In terms of a “wet look” or a true mirror finish, sanded and polished custom paintwork will be the best you can possibly get due to the thickness of the clear coat and the extreme level of refinement done to the finish.
That might be an article for another day!
Perfecting your car’s paint to create a true mirror finish usually requires a thorough detailing process like shared in this blog article and video. For a car like this C8 Corvette, it took me from start to finish around 12 hours spread over 2 days. Be sure to take this into consideration when planning a full detail for your car.
The good news is that, once you’ve done this initial detailing process, it will be much easier and faster to maintain the result you created, and this means more time enjoying your ride and less time working on your ride.
My Personal Offer to Help
I’ve been answering car detailing questions professionally since 2002 and moving forward, if after reading this article you have any questions about polishing and waxing, or how to use an AIO, my contact information is below, reach out to me, I’m always happy to help.
Would You Like to Learn How to Machine Polish Like a Pro?
Would you like to take your detailing skills to a higher level?
Do you find you learn better by doing versus sitting in a chair looking at a PowerPoint presentation about car detailing?
Here at Dr. Beasley’s O.R., (Operating Room), in sunny Stuart, Florida, we teach the most hands-on car and boat detailing classes on planet Earth. And we prove it too. You can find write-ups on the Dr. Beasley’s Blog that photo-documents just how hands-on our classes are plus you’ll see the kinds of cars and boats you’ll be training on.
Click the link below to find the dates, locations, topics, and prices for all upcoming detailing classes.
Upcoming Detailing Classes – Prices – Info – Topics – Locations
And if you ever have any questions, always feel free to reach out to me personally via text, phone call or email.
I hope to see you in a future detailing class!
Sincerely,
Mike Phillips
Chief Education Officer for Dr. Beasley’s
Mike@drbeasleys.com
760-515-0444
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